Understanding the feel of British wool
Pick up a few different British wool yarns and you’ll soon notice that they don’t all feel alike. One might be smooth and silky, another light and springy, while a third feels sturdy and full of character.
These differences are part of the pleasure of working with breed-specific wool. Each breed brings its own combination of qualities—and softness is only one part of the story. Fibre fineness, lustre, length and the way wool is spun all help shape the finished yarn.
At Woolplay, we celebrate that variety, from yarn made with wool from our own Leicester Longwool flock to other local breed-specific yarns and British mill yarns with provenance and traceability.
So, how do different breeds compare, and how can you choose wool that feels right for your project?
What makes wool feel soft?
One of the biggest influences is the diameter of the individual wool fibres, measured in microns. This is different from the thickness of the yarn: a chunky yarn can be made from very fine fibres, while a fine yarn can contain coarser ones.
Finer fibres bend more easily when they touch your skin. Coarser fibres are stiffer, so their ends can press against the skin and create the prickly sensation we sometimes associate with wool.
However, an average micron count doesn’t tell you everything. A yarn containing mostly fine fibres can still feel prickly if it includes enough coarser fibres. That’s one reason a breed name or number on a label can guide you, but cannot promise comfort for every wearer.
How do different breeds compare?
Bluefaced Leicester: soft and silky
Bluefaced Leicester is a popular choice for knitters looking for softer British wool. Its fine, lustrous fibres produce yarn with a silky feel, making it a useful starting point for shawls, scarves and garments worn against the skin. A typical fibre diameter of around 24–26.5 microns though as with every breed, individual yarns can vary. We have a Blue Faced Leicester DK yarn that is a great introduction to using British wool yarns. https://www.woolplay.co.uk/product-page/lowland-blue-faced-leicester
Shetland: fine, light and varied
Shetland wool can be wonderfully fine, but it spans a broad range of 18–30 microns, which helps explain why two Shetland yarns may feel quite different.
Some are soft enough for comfortable next-to-skin wear; others have a more pronounced woolly character. It’s worth judging the particular yarn rather than expecting every Shetland yarn to feel the same. We stock Shetland wool yarns from Shetland in 4 ply, Aran and chunky. The 4ply is softer as it's been designed for garments you may wear close to your skin whereas the Aran and chunky are certainly more rustic and suit jumpers for the outdoors
The Downs breeds: springy and woolly
Ryeland, Poll Dorset, Dorset Down breeds offer a different kind of appeal: a springy, bouncy feel rather than the silkiness associated with longwool breeds.
With an approximate fibre diameter of 28–32 microns they are generally coarser than Bluefaced Leicester but can feel pleasingly soft and woolly. Sensitive wearers should try the particular yarn before choosing it for a close-fitting neckline.
Leicester Longwool: sheen, strength and character
Leicester Longwool holds a special place at Woolplay because we keep our own flock and it is an at risk rare breed.
This breed is known for its lustrous, stronger wool and has around 32-35 microns. It is generally better suited to outerwear than garments worn directly against sensitive skin.
Choosing Leicester Longwool means appreciating its distinctive sheen and character and if it has been worsted spun, it will feel smooth and soft
Jacob: versatile wool with individual character
Jacob wool is a versatile, medium wool that sits between the finer breed wools and the stronger, coarser types. Its fibre diameter is 28–35 microns - a useful reminder that there can be considerable variation within a single breed.
At the finer end, Jacob wool may feel comfortable against the skin for some wearers; coarser examples may be better suited to garments worn over another layer. As with Shetland and Ryeland, it’s worth getting to know the particular yarn rather than judging by the breed name alone. Fibre diameter influences prickle, but spinning and the finished fabric also affect how a yarn feels.
If you’re considering Jacob for a scarf or close-fitting neckline, try a washed swatch against your skin first. It’s a practical way to discover whether that particular yarn suits you before committing to a whole project.
So where does Merino fit in?
Merino provides a useful comparison, although it shouldn’t be treated as a guarantee of softness either. Fine Merino is typically much finer than many British breed wools. Superfine Merino is classified at 16.6–18.5 microns, and fine Merino at 18.6–20.5 microns. This fineness helps explain its reputation for next-to-skin softness, but Merino can also be coarser
Is silky wool always softer?
Not necessarily. “Silky”, “soft” and “springy” describe different qualities.
A lustrous longwool can feel beautifully smooth as it passes through your hands without being especially fine. A less shiny wool may have finer fibres and feel gentler against your neck. The length of the fibres, how they are spun and the structure of the finished fabric also influence the feel.
It helps to think beyond a single scale running from “soft” to “scratchy”. Wool offers a whole collection of textures, each with possibilities for making.
How to choose wool for next-to-skin wear
Start with the project. A scarf sits against the neck, while a cardigan worn over a shirt has a different relationship with your skin.
Then, if possible:
Ask about the yarn’s fibre fineness and recommended uses.
Feel a knitted sample rather than relying only on the ball.
Knit a small swatch in your intended stitch pattern.
Wash it according to the care instructions and let it dry.
Try the finished swatch gently against the area where you plan to wear it
Washing matters because yarns can change as they settle into their finished fabric. A washed swatch gives you a more useful impression than an unwashed sample alone.
The right wool, not simply the softest
Softness matters, especially for garments worn directly against the skin. But it isn’t the only quality worth celebrating.
British sheep breeds offer an extraordinary variety of wool: fine or strong, springy or flowing, softly matt or beautifully lustrous. Matching those qualities to a project opens up more possibilities than choosing on softness alone.
At Woolplay, that variety is part of what we love about British wool. Every breed-specific yarn offers an opportunity to get to know the sheep behind the skein—and discover what their wool can bring to your making.
